We start by testing the motor, the logic board, and the safety sensors separately, because a dead opener and a dead capacitor look identical from the driveway. If it's a belt or chain that's stretched or a drive gear that's stripped, that's a same-visit fix in most cases. A failed circuit board is a parts-order item - we don't stock every board for every opener era, and a unit from the early 1970s retrofit market sometimes takes longer to source than a newer one.
We also check the wall button wiring and the remote's frequency, since houses with a long ownership history on the island often have two or three generations of opener hardware layered on top of each other. Getting the right one working again means ruling out what's actually still original.